Everyone's drinking whole milk again – here's why experts approve
Oat milk, almond milk, soya milk, pea milk: they’ve all had their moments in the spotlight in recent years. But one milk type to perhaps unexpectedly re-enter the charts? Whole milk. That’s full-fat, blue-topped milk for the uninitiated.
Lately, many people, including nutrition experts, have taken to social media to announce their return to full-fat dairy – and the statistics support the apparent shift, too. Last month, in a Q2 analysis, NatWest reported that sales of whole milk had risen 2% year-on-year. Interestingly, cheese sales also rose by 2.9%, led by cheddar, while processed and plant-based cheeses declined.
So, why is whole milk currently having its moment – and will that moment last? ‘With the help of social media, the perception around whole milk has evolved,’ says nutritional therapist Lisa Gardener, a Nutritionist Resource member specialising in digestion, hormones, thyroid, and blood sugar. ‘Recent scientific evidence suggests that high-fat dairy may actually help to prevent obesity, diabetes and cardiovascular disease rather than cause it.’
In the 1950s and 1960s, high-fat dairy, like whole milk, was criticised for its alleged role in weight gain and increased cholesterol, says Gardener. One source of that criticism can be traced back to the American scientist Ancel Keys, whose studies on the influence of diet on health widely promoted a link between fat intake and heart disease. The US government even stopped permitting whole milk in federal school meal programmes from 2012 – a move which campaigners and lawmakers have tried to overturn as more evidence has emerged on its benefits.
‘The NHS Eatwell Guide still recommends choosing lower-fat dairy options, but the current evidence simply doesn't support this,’ says Gardener.
Indeed, one of the UK's loudest critics of low-fat dairy is Tim Spector, of gut health fame, who previously called the US government’s advice on switching to low-fat or fat-free milk ‘rubbish’ on the ZOE nutrition podcast.
Whole milk vs semi-skimmed milk: Which is better?
‘Except for the fat and carbohydrate/sugar content, the nutritional profiles [of whole and semi-skimmed milk] are very similar, with protein, calcium, iodine and B12 being almost equal in all three types,’ explains Gardener. ‘Vitamin A is naturally higher in full-fat milk, but semi-skimmed and skimmed milks are often fortified with it.’
She adds that ‘the sugar content is slightly higher in skimmed milk, at 5g per 100ml, compared to 4.8g in semi-skimmed milk and 4.7g in whole milk.’ We know that high sugar intake can significantly contribute to someone’s risk of type 2 diabetes, obesity, heart disease and other conditions, says Gardener. However, ‘the higher fat content in whole milk slows the absorption of sugar, helping to keep blood sugars balanced,’ explaining why it may sometimes be the healthier option. ‘It also helps to keep you full for longer, which can help reduce overeating, therefore helping to maintain weight,’ she adds.
Who can benefit from drinking whole milk?
‘Most people should be able to enjoy whole milk as part of a balanced diet,’ says Gardener. ‘Some people who have problems digesting fats may be better choosing lower-fat milk, but it's best to work with a nutritionist before excluding any food groups to avoid nutrient deficiencies.’
Blood sugar balance may be a priority for some people and ‘is especially important for women during peri-menopause and menopause, when weight gain can become a problem,' highlights Gardener. In that case, ‘switching to whole milk may be one way to help women control their weight during this period, as well as other full-fat dairy products such as Greek yoghurt.’
As mentioned, recent evidence suggests that the benefits of incorporating whole milk into a balanced diet can ‘include a lower risk of obesity and type 2 diabetes’, and that contrary to older research, likely ‘doesn't increase the risk of cardiovascular disease’.
Essentially, says Gardener, the message here is that ‘there is no need to fear full-fat dairy, as the majority of recent studies suggest that drinking whole milk is beneficial for overall health, as part of a balanced diet.’
Often, we are too quick to categorise foods as ‘good’ and ‘bad ', ‘healthy’ and ‘unhealthy’, and it’s important we don’t fall into the same trap when it comes to milk and full-fat dairy more generally. In reality, what works for you might not work for somebody else.
That said, it seems whole milk deserves the attention it is currently getting, and can be particularly beneficial ‘for women during the menopausal transition as it supports healthy blood sugar balance, and helps to manage weight gain and improve body composition.
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